Look south from Birmingham’s city center and you’ll see Birmingham’s two parallel mountain ridges which define the surburban layout. Red Mountain is topped by Vulcan and some of Birmingham’s finest Redmont mansions. Shades Mountain is farther south, its south side gently sloping away and its north side dropping off in a steep ridge, with sweeping views in both directions. (See pgs 118-119 of Birmingham by the Book for more information about Shades Mountain development.)

Before federal regulations controlled the pollution from the steel mills, this basin-like topography trapped smoky air over the city, prompting many residents to seek cleaner air “over the mountain.” Over time, prosperous early residential neighborhoods in the city were gradually abandoned for suburban “over the mountain” communities, including Homewood, Vestavia, Mountain Brook, Bluff Park, and Hoover.

Bluff Park offered the added attraction of chalybeate spring waters and cooling breezes, which drew summer visitors to cabins and even a hotel as early as the 1850s. Neighboring Vestavia boasted spectacular views across Shades Valley and became well known as the home of Birmingham’s former mayor, George Ward.

Beginning in 1926, Mayor Ward chose not to live in the city proper and instead developed a 20-acre estate and botanical garden atop Shades Mountain. He modeled his home on the Temple of Vesta at Tivoli, Italy, and the road leading to his residence was commonly called Vesta Via. As the area grew up around him, it ultimately gave rise to the community name of Vestavia Hills. Although Ward’s residence was demolished in 1971, his 88-ton Roman temple was preserved and moved to a nearby mountainside park.