Birmingham Historical Society, Birmingham pioneers, BOOK, family history, Neighborhoods, Parks & Recreation, Shades Creek, Warren Manning

Building Mountain Brook: Shades Creek, Mt. Vernon Replica, and The Old Mill

Warren Manning and Jemison & Co. designed and developed Mountain Brook Estates from 1926 – 1929. (pgs. 114-115 of Birmingham by the Book) The main avenue in the newly developed Mountain Brook Estates was Mountain Brook Parkway, which parallels Jemison Park, designed as a linear parkway in the floodplain of Shades Creek.

The Tutwiler-McDonald Estate was built on the parkway as a replica of George Washington’s Mt. Vernon to showcase standards for Jemison & Co.’s new subdivision. The Old Mill facing the estate, was designed in 1927 as a promotional landmark for the new community, and was never a functioning mill. Other improvements included stone gates, bridges, bridle trails, and Mountain Brook Village, intended to mimic an English countryside village.

View of Shades Creek Valley from Mountain Brook Estates
Shades Creek: Flowing through Time tells the story of waters and tributaries touching the shores of Birmingham, Mountain Brook, Homewood, Hoover, Bessemer and other stretches of Jefferson, Bibb and Shelby County, Alabama. Far more than a trickling stream on a slow mosey, Shades Creek has shaped, supported and influenced life on its journey to today. Learn of explorers and Native Americans; Civil War iron-making; the water’s nurturing of native plants and wildlife; and how Shades Creek shaped modern times by providing inspiration to regional planners like Warren Manning and the Olmsted Brothers. Read too of problems in this paradise, brought on by bad judgments or good intentions gone wrong; and of the environmental groups rallying to rescue and protect the treasure. 216 pages, lavishly illustrated with more than 50 maps and 250 photographs
A Guide to Architectural Styles, Architecture, Birmingham Civil Rights, Birmingham Historical Society, Birmingham Landmarks, Birmingham pioneers, BOOK, civil rights, Dynamite Hill, family history, Farming, Highland Avenue, Housing, Neighborhoods, Smithfield, Southside

Historically Significant Architecture of Birmingham

The oldest homes in Birmingham tell the story of prosperous early industrialists and real estate developers, the struggles of the working classes, architectural trends, and the civil rights era.

  • The Smithfield/Dynamite hill homes of the civil rights era are described on pg. 90 of Birmingham by the Book.
  • Some of the most expensive homes were built on 30 acres in Glen Iris Park (pgs 102-103) prior to 1920 and along Highland Avenue in Southside.
  • More modest homes were in the Five Points South area and along Cullom Street, built in the 1890s.
  • In the late 1880s, Thomas was a company town with rented housing for those who needed to live close to the iron producing furnaces. By 1912, 550 workers lived in this community.
  • Pioneering early planters who became prominent citizens of Birmingham included Isaac Sadler, Thomas McAdory, and Thomas Owen who built flourishing plantations from 1820s to early 1900s. (pg. 26 of Birmingham by the Book)

Other significant early neighborhoods included :

  • Anderson Place, Milner Heights, Forest Park and Mountain Terrace. (pgs. 104-109).
  • The Hollywood homes in Homewood were designed in 1924, influenced by Hollywood, California, and including some of Birmingham’s first mission style architecture.
  • Roebuck Springs was contoured around knolls, and boasted an English Garden aesthetic as well as the first designed 18-hole golf course and country club grounds. (pg. 98 of Birmingham by the Book).

See more neighborhood history as well as over the mountain areas, all divided by region in Birmingham by the Book. Some early examples are included below.

W.P.G. Harding House, Glen Iris
Worker House, East Thomas
Worker House, East Thomas
T.O. Smith House, Roebuck Springs
Schwab House, Highland Avenue Area
Sadler House, McCalla, 1827
Robley Munger House, Arlington Park
Robert Jemison House, Glen Iris
Parker Bown House, Smithfield
Owen House, Bessemer, 1833
Mission Style House, Homewood
McAdory House, Bessemer, 1840
Mary M Means House, Dynamite Hill, Smithfield
Luffman House,
Glen Iris
Loveman House, Southside
Jordan House, Highland Avenue
John Drew House, Dynamite Hill, Smithfield
J. Cary Thompson House,
Five Points South
Hollywood House, Homewood
H.K. Milner House, Milner Crescent
Hayes Davis House, East Thomas
Hassinger House, Highland Avenue
Forest Park House
Forest Park House
Ensley Houses
Cullom Street Houses, Southside
Cullom Street House, Southside
Cullom Street House, Southside
Cullom Street Houses, Southside
Brown and A.G. Gaston House, Smithfield
Architecture, Birmingham pioneers, BOOK, Neighborhoods

Woodlawn’s Origins: From Rockville to Railway Boomtown

The Birmingham suburb known as Woodlawn was settled around 1815, when a street currently called Georgia Road, was still part of Mississippi territory. The town of Rockville was formed in 1832 and in 1838 pioneer Obadiah Wood acquired 400 acres on Georgia Road. Three generations of the Wood family would continue to support growth of the area by running a general store, sawmill, and post office, and by donating land for churches, a school, and homeplaces for former slaves. So in 1886, it was renamed Woodlawn in honor of the family’s contributions. The town was incorporated in 1891, and annexed into the City of Birmingham in 1910.

The former city hall, high school, library, and fire station are still standing and in use today.

City Hall, 1908
Wood Family Cemetery, 1824
Masonic Building, 1915
Woodlawn Highlands
Woodlawn Highlands
Glenn Messer House, 1898-1995
who taught
Charles Lindbergh
Woodlawn Highlands
Woodlawn Highlands
Woodlawn Highlands

Homes for professionals, merchants, and managers included Victorian, Queen Anne, Craftsman, and Tudor Cottages and bungalows. See pgs 94-95 in Birmingham by the Book for more information and a map.

Woodlawn High School, 1922
Birmingham Civil Rights, BOOK, Fred Shuttlesworth

Southern Museum of Flight: Plan a Birmingham Aviation Adventure

A favorite family activity at the Southern Museum of Flight is exploring a real aircraft that kids can climb into while discovering the history of aviation. The museum features more than 100 historic aircraft, along with interactive simulators and guided educational tours. It is one of the South’s largest aviation museums and is also home to the Alabama Aviation Hall of Fame. (See pg. 99 of Birmingham by the Book for this and related activities.)

A popular spot for birthday parties, the museum also features a playground and picnic facilities, and the gift shop is filled with aviation-themed gifts, models, flight jackets, and other unique memorabilia.

In addition to the museum, aviation tech college classes are held on the Museum’s campus. Accepting students as early as their sophomore year of high school, Aviation College degree is a virtual guarantee of full employment upon graduation.

Occasional field trips include the Birmingham Shuttlesworth International Airport, renamed in 2008 to honor Reverend Fred Shuttlesworth. A striking 13’x 66’mural by Rico Gaston, was installed to honor his memory as well, with his portrait surrounded by colorful rays.

Rev Fred Shuttlesworth mural by Rico Gatson at the Birmingham Shuttlesworth Airport

Alabama Jazz Hall of Fame, Alabama Theater, Birmingham Landmarks, BOOK, Carver Theater

Exploring Birmingham’s Jazz Roots and Grand Historic Theaters

Birmingham has a number of historic museums, theaters, and cultural venues to explore that are listed on page 10-11 of Birmingham by the Book: A Guide to the Magic City. An excellent starting point is a visit to one of Birmingham’s three historic theaters.

Tuxedo Junction is a famous historic jazz intersection and neighborhood in the Ensley area of Birmingham, Alabama, that inspired the 1939 hit swing song by Erskine Hawkins. The Jazz Hall of Fame celebrates the great musicians of this era. The museum is now located downtown in the historic Carver Theater, which was originally opened in 1935 as a movie house. A refurbished performance hall hosts live performances as well as movies.

The Lyric and Alabama Theaters face each other on 3rd Avenue North in the City Center. The Lyric is the oldest theatre in Birmingham and was opened in 1914 as a vaudeville house. Following an $11 million restoration it has reopened as a 750 seat performing arts center. The Alabama Theater was built in 1927 by Paramount Studios as an Alabama showcase for Paramount films . It now hosts over 150 events per year and was beautifully restored in 1998.

Birmingham Historical Society, Highland Avenue, Historic Preservation, Neighborhoods, Southside

Porch Crawl in Historic Highland Park

Birmingham Historical Society is excited to participate in the 2nd annual Porch Crawl in Highland Park, Sunday, October 18th, 3-5 PM! It’s FREE and open to the public, rain or shine, but hoping for beautiful October weather. It was very well attended last year! Take a look in the video below! And then read more about it and browse photos on Highland Parks Neighborhood Association website. Hope to see you in October!

Featuring 16 stops in no particular order, here’s a map:

Map showing a walking route through Rhodes Park and Rushton Park, with labeled points and a highlighted pathway.

And at our stop, you can expect the following:

Birmingham Historical Society  2827 Highland Ave
Pick up a copy of the Historic Highland Scavenger Hunt! Complete and return it to BHS by 5 p.m. to win a copy of True Tales of Birmingham, one of the Society’s most popular books. While at BHS, browse an exhibit of aerial photographs from the Society’s newest release Birmingham by the Book: A Guide to the Magic City and the Society’s other books for sale, learn about Highland Avenue’s grand residences, and get tips on researching the history of your home or apartment and how to get an historical marker.

Birmingham Historical Society, Frederick Law Olmsted, Olmsted Brothers, Parks & Recreation, Red Mountain Park

I can see for miles and miles…from Ruffner Mountain

Over 1,000 acres just minutes from downtown Birmingham (and covering an area larger than Central Park) is the reclaimed mining land of Ruffner Mountain. Mining operations began on the mountain under the Sloss Iron and Steel Company to supply iron ore to nearby Sloss Furnaces from the late 1880s until operations finally closed on June 1, 1953.

It’s the highest point in the city of Birmingham and now features over 12 miles of hiking trails. The preserved panoramic view began with 25 acres of the former limestone quarry and surrounding land in 1977. Additional land was provided by the city, by various conservation organizations, and the state’s Forever Wild Land Trust.

The Red Rock Trail System® (RRTS) is a 750-mile master plan connecting 6 main trail corridors including Ruffner Mountain. An interactive map shows the complete system and according to Birmingham Historical Society Director Marjorie White, the map looks very similar to what the Olmsted Brothers firm proposed for Birmingham in 1924.

In 2017, Ruffner Mountain was one of six Birmingham historical sites celebrating Alabama’s industrial and economic history.

Interested in hiking, biking, or nature trails? There’s lots from which to choose and you can find a comprehensive list located on pgs 12-13 of Birmingham by the Book.

Birmingham Historical Society, Birmingham Museum of Art, Birmingham pioneers, BOOK

Birmingham by the Book: A Rich, Comprehensive Magic City Guide

From neighborhood histories and iconic venues to landmark sites, this guide traces Birmingham’s story from its beginnings before the Civil War to the city’s most memorable places and landscapes today. Drawing on 50 years of research, it offers a rich, comprehensive portrait of our Magic City—with something to captivate every reader.

Now available on Amazon! Just in time for fall holiday guests!

Birmingham Landmarks, BOOK, family history, Food History

Labor Day Barbeque at the Historic Golden Rule

One of the oldest barbecue joints in the USA still in operation is the Golden Rule in Irondale. Established in 1891 by the Williams family, it’s operated under multiple owners since then. But over 130 years, it’s expanded not only its menu, but its presence throughout Alabama and the South.

Nationwide shipping attests to the ongoing popularity of this historic location. See pg. 86 of Birmingham by the Book for other must-sees near this Irondale location!

Birmingham Historical Society, Birmingham Landmarks, BOOK, Publications

150 Sites to See in Birmingham: From Motorsports to History

New to Birmingham – or just visiting? Our Birmingham by the Book guide is an excellent source of activities for history buffs. But it also includes venues for those interested in architecture, sports, civil rights, iron ore, railroads, food, parks, or even motorcycles!

Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum contains the world’s foremost collection of restored motorcycles, cars, and bicycles, along with an official U.S. Porsche driving school. The beautiful 880 acre park through rolling hills allows picnics on the grounds while watching world class racing. Named “World’s Largest Motorcycle Museum” by the Guinness World Record, it was built by George Barber and opened in 2003.

Any visit to Birmingham should include Barber Motorsports. For this and other great sites, check out the extensive Guide to the Magic City which includes over 150 sites in the Birmingham area and 50 years of Birmingham Historical Society research.

Research, Publishing, and Education